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The
passegiata reveals much of the character of Lucca. Except for the tourists, everyone is out, from the very old to babies in strollers. Youngsters are not outside the gaze of their families, and teenagers don't seem to have the
spontaneous disdain for their parents that's commonplace in America. From various side streets, people enter the massive Piazza Napoleone, and the surrounding buildings reverberate with the sound of friendly conversation. For
Lucca residents, life is lived largely outside.
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In
Lucca, you are only 30 minutes from Pisa, an hour or less from Florence, San Gimignano and Volterra, and slightly more from Siena. Admittedly, the more southern hill towns, such as Montepulciano and Arezzo, are a bit of a slog
from Lucca. But if you don't mind driving 90 minutes each way you could go there -- or, for that matter, you could go the same distance to Bologna in Emilia-Romagna or to the Cinque Terre in Liguria. Trains and buses are also
available and relatively inexpensive.
Also
accessible are a number of nearby places one hears about only in Lucca, attractions within 10 or 20 miles that are worth seeing, but that few tourists visit. There are, for example, an array of 15th and 16th century houses and
gardens, built mainly as showcases for wealthy merchants. Though still privately owned in most cases, these houses are available to the public. What a pleasure, after the crowds in so many parts of Tuscany, to drive to the
small town of Camigliano and spend a few hours on the huge grounds of Villa Torrigiani. A 16th century mansion remodeled by a Francophile in the 18th century, it's a funhouse, miniature Versailles, with faux classical statues
adorning the rococo windows and archways.
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